Sea oats and the Gulf · Destin, FL · Photo: Adrian Botica / Unsplash

Buy a pre-owned Rolex like a dealer

What to look for, what the words mean, and the warning signs that should make you walk away.

Gold and steel dive watch with a blue dial resting on an open book

Dealer lingo, decoded

Tap a word to see what it means.

Full set

The watch with its original box and papers, including the warranty card. A full set sells for more.

Unworn

Never worn since it left the dealer, often with the factory stickers still on.

Stickers

The protective stickers from the factory, usually on the caseback and clasp.

Polished

The case has been buffed. Sharp, unpolished edges are worth more.

Service papers

Proof of the last service: who did the work, and when.

Franken

A watch built from mixed or non-original parts. Steer clear.

Net

The seller's firm price. No haggling.

BNIB

Brand new in box.

Walk away if you see any of these

  • Too cheap

    A price far below every other listing for the same reference.

  • Rushed payment

    Pressure to send a wire or crypto fast, before you've seen the watch.

  • No video call

    A seller who won't show the watch live on camera.

  • Brand-new account

    No history, no reviews, no track record.

  • Papers don't match

    The serial or reference on the card isn't the one on the watch.

Where to find the numbers

The reference number tells you the model. The serial number dates the watch. The two should agree with the warranty card.

Reference numberengraved between the lugsat 12 o'clock Serial numberon the warranty card, and itshould match the watch

New to watches?

Diver, chronograph, field, pilot, GMT, dress: what each type is for.

See the watch types

Looking at a watch right now?

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